NORDIS WEEKLY
March 26, 2006

 

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A kutsero’s life

By ATHUR ALLAD-IW

Calezas or horse-drawn carriages line up in the central district of this city. The kutseros (caleza drivers) wait for tourists - both foreign and local – for a tour of the city and the nearby areas which are considered historical heritage by the Ilocano.

Ronel Ibal, a 21 year old kutsero, silently waits for passengers. As it is the start of the peak season for tourists’ arrival, he hopes he could save a bigger amount for his family’s needs.

He has been in the trade since he was 16 years old. For five years, he mastered the different areas in Vigan and even nearby historical heritage cites being visited by tourists.

He cited some areas where the caleza is allowed but the motorized vehicles are prohibited like the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) - declared historical heritage areas in the central district where old houses and stone cobbled roads built during the Spanish period are the dominant attractions.

The Spanish-built churches and the plazas are interesting and they can be reached with vehicles and tricycles.

In the surroundings are different gift shops. A traveller can buy various souvenirs for his trip’s remembrance. Local delicacies such as tinubong (sticky rice cooked in a bamboo), bibingka (rice cake), chichacorn, empanada, including longanisa and bagnet, are also among the pasalubong that can be bought in the different stores.

The different museums are among the most educational areas due to the material artifacts being kept. Those found at the Fr. Jose Burgos Museum in Vigan orient a traveller on the Spanish period in the area, if not the whole Ilocandia – the Ilocos region. The different Spanish materials in this museum are well described. Ronel added the Crisologo Museum where Ilocano materials are also kept and viewed. The rich culture of the Ilocanos are learned here, he assured.

The pagburnayan communities are the frequently visited areas by visitors. Pagburnayan refers actually to the places in Vigan where jars are produced in different sizes, shapes and artistic designs. The burnay (jars) are among the most in demand products where orders are placed earlier by customers to the makers. Historical sites in the area, like the famous Vigan church, are also utilized in the design of burnay.

Even historical places, which were popularized due to movies, are tourist attractions in the area. Ronel claimed for example that the Bell Tower in the nearby Bantay municipality became more popular when Fernando Poe, Jr. shoot a part of his film “Ang Panday,” there.

He explains that tourists visit their area during the peak season on the cold month of December up to the summer month of May. There are at least 1,500 calesas in Vigan. Asked if they have rest day schedules for other calesas, Ronel answers on the negative. “Mabalin da agpasada ti binnigat (They can have the job daily),” he quipped in Ilocano.

Each caleza is accredited by the Department of Tourism (DoT) to identify it as legally engaged in the business. In fact, each owner pays P 500 pesos per year as permit fee for engagement in the business.

He explained that regardless of the number of riders, whether the maximum of four or one, the rate per hour is one hundred fifty pesos (P150.00). During the peak season, a kutsero can have at least a minimum of five hours ride per day, which is translated to P750. I exclaimed, “Nagdakkel ah (It is a big amount)”, but he claimed that is the daily gross income. He explained that half of the amount is their daily net income while the other half is utilized for the maintenance of the horse – like feeds and vitamins. He added that the more their horses are utilized, the more they incur expenses for the maintenance of their horses – and their carriage too. “Haan lang met a ruot ti kasapulan ti kabalyo (Grass is not the only need of a horse),” he laughs.

Ronel also laments that during the non-peak season, the trade is not so profitable. They instead engage in transporting local passengers for meager pay, “Local residents, not tourists,” he points out. Though he earns a small amount during this non-peak season, “At least, I utilize my trade for the benefit of my kakailyan (town mates),” he ended. #

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