Getting Lost: A day in Peñablanca

5 MIN READ

By CHEN REYES-MENCIAS

Where else can you raft a river, watch bats fly to the sky, explore caves and go to church at the same time? None other than a place called Peñablanca in Cagayan. A mere thirty minutes drive from the Tuguegarao City is a mountainous region that has been declared a protected landscape and seascape.

The Callao cave system is a network of seven caves, three of which have stunning skylights. One chamber has a chapel in it. Photo by Chen Reyes-Mencias

It was a clear morning with blue sky and white puffy clouds when I decided to spend a day exploring this destination that people say have impressed none other than US President Franklin D.Roosevelt himself. After paying the entrance fee to the park I climbed the steps to get to the world renowned Callao cave system. As soon as I reached the top my guide pointed out a deeply etched “ROOSEVELT” on the rock. Whether it was really the President who did it or not, his name has been immortalized on the rock.

As soon as I came into the shadow of the enormous chamber my nose was infused with the pungent smell of bat guano. Suddenly my skin felt the coolness of the air that seems to blow through the cave. The ground was wet since it has been raining.

The Pinacanauan River is a tributary to the Cagayan river. It is an excellent place for beginners to learn white water rafting or kayaking since it offers class I and II rapids. Photo by Chen Reyes-Mencias

A deep pit cordoned with ropes has been accumulating water. It was one of the archaeological digging sites that the National Museum had started to work on. Peñablanca is a haven for archaeologists. Caves were used as shelters by people hundreds of years ago. And where there were people, there will be stories to tell, history, culture, keys to the past and mysteries that may be unlocked with knowledge and understanding.

The first chamber was enormous, the ceiling rising up more than 100 feet above my head. A skylight on top allows shafts of bluish white light to cast their glow over several pews lined up in front of an altar. The scene was rather surreal because it looked like a magical apparition. I could not help but kneel and thank God for such a wonderful creation. So, this must be the famous chapel that is being promoted in several travel brochures. The pictures I have seen do not do justice to the real thing.

Being in the place engages all the senses. I could hear the echoing sound of bats, dripping of water and the muffled sound of blowing cool air. I could feel the moisture of the air, smell the dampness and overpowering odor of bats. I can imagine that the shafts of light are actually good healing energy flooding my entire being and showering me with blessings.

My guide called my attention to some rock formations that look like the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus. He also urged me to move on and check out the rest of the caves. As more mud started clinging to my hiking boots it became harder to walk. Nevertheless I trudged along, my eyes adjusting to the limited visibility.

Three of the chambers have skylights allowing plants to grow in the cave. Moss, ferns and some unique plant life were able to adopt to the limited sunlight. Limestone walls had been pockmarked with holes from natural weathering. If not for the slippery surface caused by moss, these walls would be perfect for rock climbing.

Up and down I went feeling so insignificant and small in such huge chambers. The third one was even bigger than the first. The last thing that one will feel in these caves is claustrophobia. Everything seems to be magnified as large rock formations loom ahead. No need for difficult rock scrambling or crawling in small holes.

Sadly the numerous graffiti on the walls also seem to emerge in the darkness and call attention to themselves. If they were drawings of people that live in these caves more than 200 years ago I would have had a deep appreciation. The writings however were made by modern men who were all too eager to leave their mark. These were tourists who, with their irresponsible behaviour destroy natural wonders. My guide pointed out to a graffiti that was written in 1930. He said that it is the oldest of all graffitis in the cave. It was interesting how such bit of information becomes part of the interpretation.

Lunch was spent at the bank of the Pinacanauan River after a five-minute boat ride from the cave entrance. Age old trees whose roots prevent soil from being eroded during the swell of the river, line the edge.

I was told that further upstream is the venue for the rafting tours which are offered during the rainy season. For now I had to settle for some kayaking and tubing. The kayak allowed me to take a closer look of the flora and the rock formations while the inflated inner tubes provided moments of fun as I allowed myself to drift down with the flow.

Late in the afternoon my guide told me to sit still and wait. As soon as the sun settled in the horizon and the sky turned gray, a shrill broke the silence of dusk. It was the signal for thousands of bats to leave the safety of the cave and forage for food in the forest. Like one single entity the bats flew out from a cave located way up on a steep rock formation. They swirled, spinned and made loops like they were celebrating life. As the rest of the natural world started to relax in the darkness, these nocturnal creatures release themselves from their enclave and conquer the world like its their last day on earth. Such burst of energy is so magnificent to witness.

What a way to end the day! As I watched their lovely silhouette etched against the mauve sky I pondered on the connectively of life. The lives of these bats depend on the life of the caves. The integrity of the caves depend on the forest growing above them that supplies them with water. Without water seeping through the cracks and tiny holes in the ground and the rocks, stalactites and stalagmites will not form. Without water the caves will become brittle and crumble. In addition, the bats rely on the forest for food. The circle of life is seamless and should never be broken.

The Callao caves represent a national heritage that should be protected. People’s positive behaviour and attitudes when visiting such national treasures will ensure that they remain for many generations. #

For more information on responsible travel visit Chen’s web sites: www.tourismplan.blogspot.com and www.wildclassroom.blogspot.com or send her an email at wildexpeditions@yahoo.com.